Claire Joseph’s Spiral Collection brings a couture-level custom
fit to relaxed, everyday pieces - blending an architectural,
complex cutting technique with a minimalist, modern aesthetic.
Mentored by a protege of the iconic 20th-century designer
Charles James who invented complex draping and cutting
methods, Claire Joseph has been extending and perfecting this
spiral draping technique since the mid-1980s.
Many of her pieces are cut from a single pattern, darting and
seaming into a tailored garment. Unlike most garments cut on
either the straight or bias grain of the fabric, the spiral structure
cuts through multiple grains - from cross grain, to bias, to
straight grain, and back again. This allows the fabric to wrap
and conform to the body, creating body-enhancing forms that
naturally shape, without clinging or restricting.
The artisanal Spiral Collection is designed and produced
in Los Angeles. Materials and collaborations are globally
sourced. Using the client as inspiration, seams as sentences,
and cut as grammar, Joseph has developed a conceptual
collection of colour and shapes that fit to the body.
A multi-hyphenate artist and clothing designer, Joseph
graduated from UCLA and opened a studio in Los Angeles,
designing clothing and textiles for private clients, boutiques and
films. In 1988, Betye Saar, a friend and mentor, recruited
Joseph to collaborate on her “Shadow Song” series of 11
paintings on silk, including the seminal “Celestial Universe,” a
95” x 125” dye on silk, which is co-signed by Joseph. Saar
encouraged Joseph to travel to Italy to pursue her aspiration of
working for Romeo Gigli, and in 1990, Romeo Gigli chose her
to be his colourist, developing and leading his hand dye,
painting, and Shibori studio in Milan. She also headed up
Gigli’s textile research and development, spanning couture
fabrics to outerwear. It was there she met and worked with
Alexander McQueen, and introduced him to the work of Charles
James and traditional women’s pattern making.
In 2000 - 2008, Joseph opened a store in Hollywood, and
then went on to work with prominent British artists Banksy,
Paul Insect; Antony Micallef, collaborating to build many of
their most ambitious sculptures and museum installations.
Joseph has fitted over 3,000 people. Using the client as
inspiration, she employs her signature spiral draping
techniques to create dresses for every occasion. She has
designed gowns for the Oscars, Emmys, and Golden
Globes. Her work includes casual and couture clothing,
oil paintings and water colors, textile art and interior
furnishings.